Corsica

Corsica produced a Bonaparte and an aperitif, and has built a monument to each: Cardinal Fesch's picture gallery in Ajaccio, and in Bastia the only shopfront on the island listed as a historic monument. Between the two are mountains, and roads that take longer than the map suggests.

Stay

Institutions

Grand Hôtel de Cala Rossa (Porto-Vecchio) — Toussaint Canarelli opened it in 1977 on the bay north of Porto-Vecchio. His children Paul, Hélène and Lise reopened it in April 2018 with fewer, larger rooms and a restaurant cut to thirty seats.

Crossing Town

Domaine de Murtoli (Sartène) — Paul Canarelli's estate of some 2,500 hectares in the Ortolo valley, where around twenty shepherds' houses and seventeenth-century farmhouses have been restored as places to stay, a long way apart from one another. There is a beach, and one of the restaurants is in a cave.