Topic

Fashion

Collections, designers and the businesses around them, reviewed at some distance from the show.

Auralee S/S 2027 menswear runway, look 25

Fashion

Notes from Paris Men’s Fashion Week

Seven collections from the S/S 2027 men’s shows to return to. Paris closed the men’s season with the usual collision of large houses, smaller presentations and enough competing narratives to make instant verdicts fairly useless. A little distance helps. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello’s clothes were the least elaborate thing in the room. Michael Rider’s Celine made room for several different silhouettes at once. Julian Klausner continued to find his footing at Dries Van Noten, while Jonat

Fashion

Willy Chavarria Puts the Waist Back on Men

Everyone talks about the size of a Willy Chavarria trouser. The more useful question is where it begins. At the top of a Chavarria trouser, the waistband sits where a waistband used to sit — at the waist. On the body, that decision reorganises everything below it. The Cholo Chino rises high over the hip, opens into deep pleats and falls into a wide leg: high waist, wide leg, as the label puts it plainly. The legs lengthen, the torso compresses and the chest reads broader. A familiar male silho

Fashion

The Missing Middle of Fashion

Aaron Esh’s first AllSaints collection arrives today. The more interesting question is whether a brand like AllSaints can restore something fashion has spent years hollowing out. The old AllSaints shop did a lot before you reached the clothes. The light was low. Singer sewing machines filled the windows. Leather, iron and grey timber made a branch in a shopping centre feel faintly illicit. It was retail theatre, but it also established something that has become increasingly rare: you knew whose