Guests arriving at Willy Chavarria’s spring 2027 show in Paris walked into a room that smelled of lime, cedar, tuberose and moss. The scent was FlordeMusgo, made by the Mexico City perfumer Xinú, and it is now on sale as a candle. Xinú’s usual vessel has been glazed black instead of white and fitted with a medallion bearing Chavarria’s name. The edition is limited, and the price is about €105.

This is his sixth release of the year. Big Willy, a premium line, arrived in February, followed by a collection for Zara in March, a bespoke tailoring service in May, studded boots for UGG in September and an ongoing collaboration with adidas in October.

Xinú turns ten next year. It has investment from Estée Lauder without being owned by it. FlordeMusgo had buyers before it had a medallion.

Bain and Altagamma estimate that luxury brands have lost around 70 million customers since 2022, largely over price. Most of those people still shop, though for smaller things, and a candle from an established perfumer is nearer to what they now spend than a jacket from the mainline.

Admission to the show was by invitation. The smell of the room is available to anyone with €105.

Chavarria has built a career on putting the unseen in the spotlight. Here he does it with the one sense nobody can photograph. The candle is available now on willychavarria.com, and Xinú opens a boutique in Tokyo at the end of 2026.